Dive Watch Releases / Articles

2018-04-25

Vintage-VDB Project Black TEN YEARS Nº32





















































©OceanicTime

THREE discontinued DIVERS I wish I owned

Regrets, I’ve had a few! Here are three über-cool dive watches that at the time I passed on for other things that I wish I hadn’t. :(

TAG Heuer Super Professional 1000M (latest Gen.)



First released in the mid-80s; it came in sand-blasted Stainless steel and was supplied with a kit that included: a spare rubber diver’s strap, a separate rubber wetsuit extension strap, a decompression table and strap changing tool.

Other variants of the watch included a bloody cool black PVD version and a spurious-looking variant with a gold bezel. Great info. on it HERE.

At the time (just before the turn of the millennium), it was a tossup between the TAG Heuer Super Professional 1000M and a Breitling Superocean Professional 1524M. Unfortunately I was seduced by the additional water-resistance and the swanky Breitling name.

ZODIAC Super Seawolf 100 ATM (2nd Gen.) 



It was in production between 1998 and 2001. Targeted as a direct competitor to the TAG Heuer Super Pro, it was characterized by its huge buzz-saw diver’s bezel and serpent-headed min. hand. Like the TAG, it had an unmistakable appearance, was powered by a Swiss ETA auto and 1000m of WR. Great info. on it HERE.

A mint one came up on my radar for sale in 2010 – I shoulda’ jumped on it but another collector who I know did; fair play to him.

Baume et Mercier Capeland S XXL



Released in the early noughties, this watch boasted a Titanium case with a tough Stainless steel bezel and a beautiful woven yellow Kevlar dial. A rare black faced one was released in South American market. The XXL was supplied with two straps – one in Kevlar with yellow stitching and one which was a special rubber divers strap designed to fit comfortably over a wet-suit. Great info. on it HERE.

At the time (2006) I decided to buy a 2nd GP SHII Pro instead, which was on sale BNIB through a grey market dealer for just 3600USD. I still have two SHII Pros – I wish I had one of these, tho.

All three models have been discontinued for well over a decade or more. All three brands are currently operating – TAG and Zodiac are kinda’ focused on bringing back historic models (Zodiac more so), so reissues are possible. B&M aren’t likely to do a reissue anytime soon.

MB&F HM7 Aquapod Ti GREEN

Be you Kermit, be you Hulk, be you any other green dive watch – step aside; there’s a new green god in town and it’s wearing an MB&F badge, it is of course the jellyfish inspired, HM7 Aquapod in a gorgeous green getup.



Now that I’ve got the alliteration outta’ the way with, let’s see what (asides its color) separates this new variant apart from its Cnidarian cousins.



Actually not an awful lot, but there is one physical change – whereas Titanium versions had previously come with either blue or black ceramic bezels inlays, this new green variant makes use of a Sapphire crystal insert.



The HM7 Aquapod Ti Green has been Limited to 50 pieces. Like other HM7s it is home to an in-house, central 60-second flying tourbillon which is comprised of 303-components.



Like some real jellyfish, the HM7 glows in the dark thanks to SuperLumiNova and AGT Ultra: on the hour and minute numerals, around the inside of the movement and along the tentacle-like winding rotor.



Thoughts? How comes every time when haute horology and diver’s watches cross paths, the watchmakers are only ever interested in the haute horology side of things –

would it hurt to actually create something this incredible that performed equally as exceptionally as a dive watch?!

2018-04-24

ZLATOUST Diver 193-ChS БРОНЗА [bronza] 53MM

This is the new Zlatoust Diver 193-ChS Bronza fresh from the Russian Urals, released by the famous Agat Clock Factory after a brief period of inactivity owning to fulfillment of Russian military contracts.



The Zlatoust Combat Diver Bronza collection includes 3 solid handcrafted models hewn from the same CuSn8 bronze alloy that is being used in the luxury watch market by Panerai:

two variants have a case diameter of 46mm; one with the crown on the right hand side of the case and one destroy-style on the left so as not to hinder wrist movement.



In addition to the 46mm models, there is a third 53mm monster (shown here) which is only available as a left-hander. As far as I know Agat haven’t made any of their unwearable 60mm+ versions in bronze.



The Agat Clock Factory has been operating since the early 40s when they started manufacturing mechanical stopwatches.



The Zlatoust combat divers have been in existence since the 60s and are truly in a class of their own and imho are the ONLY true Russian diver’s watches.



If you want to read more on them please check out my in-depth article, HERE. It’s a bit old now but still has some good info.



This 53mm is the second largest member of the Zlatoust family but it actually measures 69mm across if we take into account the monolithic-like crown. However it has a height of just 16mm and a weight of 160 grams.



Current trends for oversized wristwatches are basically dying a slow death and for good reason – even a self-confessed wearer of dinner plates and pizzas, myself I am now exclusively wearing 42 – 45mm watches,

so I have little business telling anyone how this watch is on the wrist other than saying that it is wearable on the average wrist but is no daily.



Remember, that it is also available in 46mm for anyone who is not feeling oversized watches.

My only reservation about these new bronze Zlatoust combat divers is that they have bronze rather than Stainless steel case-backs.



Bronze is far more likely to react with a sweaty skin than steel causing a possible green itchy wrist. However this can easily be taken care of with a NATO.



Powering the 193-ChS Bronza is a Russian (not European) Vostok automatic winding caliber 2415 with 31 jewels, 19.800 half-rotations per hour and shock protection.



Although the watch is not in the style of your typical modern diver (it doesn’t have a timing bezel) it is derived from the watches worn by the Russian aquanauts of the Cold War era and is built like one of the Soviet T-64 tanks.



It has a water-resistance of 700 meters. Further diver's features include modern (non-lethal) brightly glowing lume and a special canteen crown-protector.

The hands are not necessarily Russian in style but are of a much early period and are known as Cathedral hands.



All three bronze models of the Zlatoust combat diver Bronza collection have the exact same retail price of 865€, so size really doesn’t matter!

IMPORTANT these are prices for special limited versions with Sapphire crystals NOT mineral glass which are a hundred or so euros cheaper.



They come on authentic stapled brown leatherette straps with steel buckles and are supplied in traditional wooden boxes with paperwork inside, in Russian.

This model was kindly supplied to me by Agat through one of their preferred global distributors – if you need help getting one, please drop me a line.



Thoughts? It’s pretty cool to see bronze being used for this iconic diver. I was pleasantly surprised to see that proper CuSn8 was used, too.

The watch is of course made to be worn and could survive the rigors of the harshest of lives but for me personally it is more of a collector’s piece.


©OceanicTime

They are quite rare, unique and handsome-looking timepieces – owning one is kinda’ like owning a piece of Cold War history and Soviet military diving equipment rolled into one. Wear it, don’t wear it, look it and marvel at it!

CHRISTOPHER WARD C60 Trident 316L Ltd YELLOW

CW has released a bright new yellow faced variant of their special 316L Limited Edition C60 Trident.



The watch remains identical to all previous Trident 316L watches, safe the sunny new dial.



Basic spec. includes a 43mm 316L Stainless steel case with 600 meters of water-resistance as well as usual features such as divers bezel and Sapphire crystal.

Power comes from a Swiss made Sellita SW200-1 anti-shock system and 38hrs of power-reserve.



The watch has four different strap / bracelet options than include: leather, NATO, rubber or Stainless steel.



MSRP is £710 NATO - £795 Steel. The watch can be pre-ordered now with an early May delivery.



Thoughts? This would look perfect on a black NATO with yellow pinstripes.